Rounding off Waist and Hems

So, your skirt needs rounding off.  How do you do this and make sure that it fits the body and the rest of the pattern without either guessing or using one approximation that is supposed to work for all body types? The answer is easy, although it does involve a tiny bit of maths.

1. Imagine a simple skirt block.  This is from the 4 Gore pattern:

4-Gore and 6-Gore Skirt

This is the process for a 4-gore and 6-gore Skirt. First you will make a template for the gores out of paper or card using your own measurements and then use this template to measure and mark out the fabric. The process is really simple and you'll need only four measurements: your Hip, your Waist, the distance between Hip and Waist and the length of the skirt you want to make.

For simplicity, and so you can see how all steps were derived, ease for the Waist and Hips has been omitted. If you practice this pattern using paper, the final seam should fit perfectly to your model. If you make up this skirt for wearing, add wearing ease to the Hip and Waist measurements at Step #1 and #3. Let's start with the 4-gore skirt

1. On paper, mark out the following:

  • Centre Line = Skirt Height, the distance from Waist down to wherever you want to skirt to stop. Mark a provisional Hem Line.
  • Hip Line = full Hip measurement / 4.
  • Waist Line = Waist measurement / 4.


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